You are currently browsing the monthly archive for July 2008.
so i went out for the first time on friday and again last night (saturday), and was introduced to the nightlife here – well, at least the ex-pat’s nightlife. so far, i can’t tell whether koreans tend to drink much or not, i’m glad to know that most americans like to get nicely drunk wherever they are in the world.
oh, first, pics from week 2: http://www.flickr.com/photos/28819999@N08/sets/72157606394135264/
pretty poor quality once again, so apologies..
ex-pat culture here, let me tell you, is… interesting. i already had some notions about it, and to see and experience it in person definitely solidified some of those ideas.
there are two kinds of foreigners here:
type 1 – people who are educated, are actually interested in korean or eastern culture, history and language, want to travel, and/or have a genuine interest in being an English teacher or education as a career. these people are generally recent grads.
type 2 – people who left home to get away from something (perhaps a troubled past?) and start anew, didn’t have anything going for them back in the states or wherever they’re from, knew they could make a lot of cash here, and/or are interested in asian women.
about 70% of the ex-pats here are of the latter category. many of the americans i’ve met here are from small towns in the midwest or the south, are a little red-necky, and aren’t very educated, much less qualified to teach. (this is partly because korean expat culture started after the korean war with men of that type 2 quality, and some of the remnants of that old culture still exist now. whereas expat culture in, say, shanghai or hong kong started much earlier through business, trade and british colonialism, although i hear there’s expat seediness in those places as well..) anyway, the overarching reasons that nearly all young ex-pats are here – $$$ and nightlife. it really comes down to those two things.
so guys, if you want to make a lotta dough without much effort, come to Seoul. qualifications are fairly loose, as long as you have some post-secondary education from any crappy college and are a native english speaker. you will get paid handsomely, won’t work very much, and the koreans will treat you very well because they love white people. you probably won’t have to go through as much of the bullshit i go through at the tutoring center i work at, as they’ll at least try to be more accomodating. in the words of a douchey guy from some random small town in manitoba i met last night, “they treat us like god” – ‘us’ being caucasian. by the by, this dude has been in korea for three years, hardly speaks ANY korean, and is marrying a korean girl in the fall.
speaking of korean girls, if you have an asian fetish (or yellow fever, as they call it), you’ll find a bonus. seriously, every white dude i’ve ever seen on the streets here is with some korean chick, and every white dude i’ve talked to so far has either had a korean girlfriend, is currently dating one, or is about to marry one… most dudes can’t speak korean and have no intention of learning the language (as in the case i just mentioned), and likewise, most girls can’t speak much english either. i wonder what some of these girls are thinking. although there are definitely some cool guys, many are pretty dumb, but think and act like they’re the shit. i guess it just goes to prove that white dominance and privilege is still very much alive around the world…
but that’s not to say there aren’t a lot of cool people here. don’t get me wrong. i met some cool german girls who’re exchange students and both half-asian through a friend of a family friend, and barhopped with them to the places they hang out at in shinchon.
we went to three bars that expats frequent. the first place, mike’s cabin, was on the sleazier side. a few korean girls were there with their friends hoping to pick up white men. and the guys were so clearly checking all the girls out, and kept coming by our and other tables to try to talk. the caliber was pretty low. reminded me a little of bar none in the east village.
drinks are comparable to nyc. a hoegaarden was 6,000 won (so about $6; 1000 won = ~$1). but cheap beers (think similar to pabst or bud light) are about $3. (seoul’s cost of living really is about the same as nyc. some food is cheap, but even then, that’s solely bc it’s street food, kind of like getting a falafel or shawarma in the city. most meals here are anywhere from $6 for lunch specials and up, depending on the quality of the place you go to. a standard filling meal ranges between $12-20. i know some of you have the notion that seoul would seem cheap because it’s asia and you probably think that korea’s not a first-world country, but you’ve got the wrong idea, or been fed the wrong impression through western media. it’s not as expensive as tokyo, but it’s up there.) you can also drink on the street (no open container law, although it’s frowned upon), so a lot of people get beer at 7 eleven and drink on their way to the bars, rather than buy them in the bars themselves.
anyway, while we were out, i asked one of the two girls what the dating scene was like. she told me that because all the foreigners know that none of them are really here to stay for the long haul and because they don’t know whether or not the foreigners they’re seeing have partners back home, cheating is pretty frequent in this community. in her words, “everyone’s fucking everyone” (germans know how to put it best). hmm, good to know.
before we knew it, it was 4:30 am. i don’t know why, but time flies faster here, or at least it never seems late, maybe because there are always people out at all hours of the night. the subway stops service at around midnight, so the only option was a cab ride home – $17. during the ride, i continued an old habit that i picked up in ny – talking to cabbies on the way home after a long night. this guy in his late 40s spoke fairly good english and i was surprised. i asked him where he learned it, and it turns out that he was formerly a banker at merrill lynch, before he got laid off some years back during the asian financial crisis. i wasn’t sure how i should feel about him – whether to feel sorry or what, but he seems like he’s doing all right.
oh man, probably boring you guys… props if you made’ve it this far in the blog. saturday night, we went out with some american teachers (really, everyone’s an english teacher here) that we met the night before. mostly americans from the west or midwest and some canadian fellows. a couple of them are getting married to korean chicks and most others have serious girlfriends (though take ’serious’ however you will). we went to a posh hookah bar – a dim candle-lit place, where we sat at tables with plush cushions on the floor. each seating area was an island surrounded by water with floating flower petals – lush. after some time there, we went to hongdae, the hip area that’s the ’spot’ to go out to, not before stopping by 7 eleven for some beer. we were supposedly going to go to some more bars (even possibly a gay bar in itaewon, which is the ex-pat/foreign neighborhood in seoul), but couldn’t decide on going anywhere and just sat outside on some steps and drank (this is not uncommon). while we were sitting around and chillin, a man selling makgulli (rice wine) came by with his cart. he’s well known, frequenting that street at night to sell makgulli to all the foreigners hanging out. evidently, the people i was with knew him, and he gave us a ‘deal’ and sold us a bottle for $2. that mixed with soju (similar to sake), with beer, with wine, with hookah and cigarettes is not the best combination. therefore, i puked (not something i do frequently at all and try to avoid at all costs) at around 4:30 am (again) and it was time to go home. some wild times…
some days, i don’t even feel like i’m in another country. the lifestyle here is a lot like that of new york, but with a few new sights and differences that’s 5x faster paced. i should note that i have visited this country before, although it was 12 years ago, and i am korean ethnicity, so i guess you could write it off as me being more familiar with this place than say a true foreigner. but an american friend i just made feels the same way. it’s so western here that sometimes i feel the only difference is the people. or at other times, i feel like i’m simply in koreatown in flushing, new jersey or LA… boston red sox and yankees caps aren’t uncommon, nor american brand clothing (as i mentioned before). and a week later, i’m still surprised each time by the abundance of americanness surrounding me. krispy kreme, dunkin donuts, the coffee bean, bennigans, even a hooters, they’re all here…
a couple things that are different:
- there are no street signs beyond the major streets, so i rely totally upon directions and trust from others. it’s a confusing feeling not knowing where exactly i am at any point. and because i don’t have a map other than the subway map and didn’t buy a guidebook for seoul or korea, i’m probably not making the most of my time here in figuring out all the places i should check out and sightsee.
- cigs are cheap here! $2.50 a pop. i might become a smoker just because it’s so cheap.
- the same friend i made the other night and i both decided that it’s very hard to make friends here. i’m lucky that i had a family friend around my age to show me around for a bit the first few days. but overall, it’s hard. the locals here (the koreans) are either totally family-oriented or home-bodies (like on the part of my family friend, who doesn’t really like to go out); they’re also simply aren’t known to reach out to strangers they’ve just met. the americans can be a hit or miss depending on whether they’re type 1 or type 2; and as i mentioned, my work environment is kinda whack.
this is just a musing, but it’s weird to learn how koreans think of me. some, when they first meet me and hear that i’m from the states, applaud my ‘good’ korean and are fascinated that i can speak it at all. but others, when they find out that i was born in korea, applaud my good english even as i tell them that i moved when i was a toddler, grew up in the states my entire life, and AM american, feel american, and identify with being an american. i don’t know why simply having been born in korea has anything to do with my english language skills when i clearly grew up in the states, haven’t been to this country in so many years, and haven’t lived here for even longer – some twenty years! it’s just weird when i know that they’re attempting to conceptualize me and put me in a box… people in the states do that too, but it’s funny to see it coming from the other side.
friday morning, i was greeted by excessive humidity and rain as i left the goshiwon (the dorm where i live) to get to class. and to match the gloomy weather, my day was about to get painfully worse.
but before i get into that, here’s a little background of what i do: i work at a hakwon (tutoring center) teaching TOEFL from 8 am to 6 pm (with a 2 hr lunch break) on mon/wed/fri, and from 8 to 10 am on tues/thurs. the hakwon, simply put, is fucked up. you see, there are millions of hakwons in korea. every korean child attends after-school tutoring and extra classes every day, even during the summers. life can be hard here for these kids. the school and education system are insane, and parents push kids over the edge. incidentally, i think korea, after japan and sweden, had the third highest suicide rates back in the ’80s and ’90s, though i don’t know if it’s related to the school system or just life in general here..
at my hakwon, there is very little organization and management behind the administration. a preview of last week’s admin issues: i had initially been told i would teach the SAT, which was indeed what i wanted to do. but the first day i got there a few days before classes began for “training,” i was told that i would be teaching TOEFL, which i’ve never taught and knew barely anything about. secondly, they didn’t have the books i needed on hand. i had to come in on a saturday and pick them up to prep for the first class last monday. among the problems is the manager, john, a clueless idiot who doesn’t even know he is one. he has very little educational background, and yet, he’s in charge of ordering everyone else around. i wasn’t given a class list nor told what classroom i’d be teaching in until the morning of the first class. nor was i told how i should structure my classes and plan my lessons. nor that on tuesday and wednesday, the kids had a practice test and wouldn’t have class, saving me time and energy. it’s just bullshit after bullshit after bullshit. i’ve been getting really fed-up over the last week. already.
anyway, on friday, on top of the usually admin bs, some of the kids were driving me insane. many are so poorly behaved – terribly chatty, loud and rude. half come to class late. they talk back constantly. the only way to scare them is by telling them to go out into the hallway or that i’m going to call up their moms. these kids have real issues, and i think a number of them could use serious corporal punishment, disciplining, or drugs to subdue their manic behavior. i’m only kidding. or… am i.
other students simply don’t care to learn and participate. there are a number of narcissistic boys who even check themselves out in pocket mirrors and constantly fix their hair during class. others text message friends or watch tv shows on their cells, and just don’t give a flying fuck. if i ask them a question, no one ever volunteers. the thing is, they’re all spoiled brats. they live in the richest part of seoul, and go to prep schools in the states during the school year. i’m not even explaining myself fully. but it’s suffice to say, it’s entirely frustrating, and after just one week, i might’ve reached the last straw.
so after classes on fri, i told john, the idiot manager who’s also been putting a lot of pressure on me since i’m new, that i might quit after this upcoming week. not only can i not deal with the stress from him and the admin, but i hate teaching TOEFL (i get $35/hour but it’s really not that much if you include how much prep time i put in) and the teaching environment (admin, teachers, students) sucks. the other teachers are excessively clique-y, and though outwardly friendly, i can sense the superficiality. for instance, there is a group of about 6 ot 7 teachers that go to lunch together just by themselves every day, and fittingly but also conceitedly, call themselves “the lunch bunch.” on friday, for some reason, one of them invited me to come along. i joined, but it was a little weird. and towards the end of lunch, justin asked me, jokingly yes but nonetheless pretentiously, if i enjoyed lunch with them, and proceeded to tell me that they don’t just let anyone join in and that there’s a, har-har, ‘application process.’ right.
so i’m going to reach some sort of decision about whether i feel up to continuing to work at this place after my classes tomorrow. we’ll see how things go…
http://www.coexmall.com/language/en/html/character_info01.asp
mall’s apparently have mascots and characters… adorable. funny, but adorable.
also, in order to find more ‘likes,’ i’m going to have to do more ‘cultural’ things. there isn’t a whole lot to do in seoul other than to shop, eat out, and drink – just like any other city, i guess. which is why i’m hoping to go on some weekend trips soon.
again in bullet point fashion. my apologies…
- this place has an obsession with the english language, american things and western culture. anything american, really. almost everything mimics something american (clothing, food, commercials, music, etc – though not so much tv, i’ve noticed). for instance, there are stores that look like carbon copies of abercrombie, banana republic and other such american brand-name stores, although they do have the legit american imports as well.. all the ads and a lot of store signs are written in english (but nearly half the time in some absurd, broken english). tons of commercials feature american stars (one who’s really popular here right now is the dude from ‘prison break’ – ‘prison break?’ who watches that in the states? um, not me). EVERY child, student, and adult is in some way studying english – whether at school, on their own, or at after school tutoring centers. yet, at the same time, it’s not like people here are actually good at speaking it. i find all of this a bit troubling.
- i’ve started speaking back in english whenever i go into a store and don’t feel like dealing with the sales reps. it kinda works great.
- there’s an obsession with coffee here as well, but not real coffee – more like fake coffee, like mochas and lattes. but being a black coffee drinker, this is a rather large inconvenience to me, as cafe americanos are generally very weak and watery.
- in fact, most western food products (again, ubiquitous) are a little lighter and less fatty in general, which is both a blessing and a curse. (i’ve probably already lost 2 or 3 lbs here.) the yogurt is lighter which isn’t necessarily unpalatable, but some days, i yearn for the thickness of greek yogurt. however, i do feel that the pastries and baked goods are tastier here. yum.
- there are a lot more white men than white women. and most of them are often seen with korean women, which i find somewhat disturbing and weird. asian fetish much?
- there are (faux) hipsters in seoul! faux because i don’t think they’re totally genuine, only in dress. (but then again… hipsters by definition are faux everything, aren’t they?)
things i hate already:
- the rampant materialism and materialistic culture (for instance, my uncle’s had 6 cars in the last 12 years.. only one of the many examples i can think of.)
- the fact that i almost always feel poorly dressed now compared to these fashionable women
- the obsession with appearance (cosmetic surgery isn’t uncommon – it’s pretty cheap actually.)
- the HOMOGENEITY!!! everyone looks the same! (even as they are all pretty and well-dressed in their own way.) i dislike being surrounded by one race so often! i actually miss being different and having a sort of an identity. not only do i feel invisible here, but i sometimes feel lost as i look like everyone else, and yet, can’t communicate like everyone else! it’s quite frustrating. my heart jumps a little every time i see a foreigner now. and i seek every opportunity to speak english whenever i can.
- cost of living is extremely high, higher than nyc.
things i like:
- the food, snacks and little stores with curios and fun novelty items. and on that same level, the ubiquity of cute little things.
- the clothing, shoes, and other such superficial items if i could afford to spend money on them.
i need to work on lengthening this side of my list
many double-edged swords…
as far as the teaching job goes, i’ll elaborate on it later.. but MAN, it’s suffice to say that the kids here can be motherfuckin cruel. they will eat you alive and tear you to pieces.. and my co-workers are so-so..
stay tuned for more.
i’ll preface this post by saying that i’m going to write a lot of my posts in a sort of a stream of consciousness style, so don’t judge me on the writing nor my photography skills! i’ve almost always been pressed for time so far while trying to take pics and use the web. there’s access to the internet everywhere, but so far, i haven’t really had a block of time to myself to gather my thoughts, much less write anything down. this is also hard to do when i don’t have my own computer, and i’m constantly borrowing someone else’s things..
SO. this is going to be a short update. i have a ton of thoughts going through my head – about the city, about the people, about the culture, about the place i’m working at, the list goes on… suffice to say, a lot is different. but strangely, a lot is also the same…
here are some pictures i’ve taken so far: http://www.flickr.com/photos/28819999@N08/sets/72157606264635108/
you’ll notice i took a lot of pics of american franchises.. i didn’t know there would be so many! pizza hut, domino’s, 7 eleven, subway, outback steakhouse, tgi friday’s, starbucks (given), cold stone, smoothie king. there are wayyy too many..
i even saw the picture of an amherst girl, that tall skinny chick, at an american apparel store!
i have to go prep for class tomorrow, but i’ll try to write something substantial sometime later in the week…
for now, a couple of quick thoughts:
- Seoul is huge, and it’s a lot cleaner than I thought. Much cleaner than New York.
- This place is not cheap. I’ve already spent a couple hundred bucks here in a couple of days, and that’s factoring in the fact that I’ve had several meals paid for me, haven’t pay for housing (yet), haven’t gone out, and have been extremely budget-conscious.
- The women are ridicufuckinglously fashionable here. I look really shabby compared to them in my flip flops and t-shirt. Most almost always wear make-up, heels and really fancy, trendy clothing. I’ve even been told by my aunt that I don’t look “American” (which I presume means that I’m not as trendy as I should be??).
- I go back and forth between thinking the people here are friendly and warm and unfriendly and angry. Kind of like NYC in some ways, I guess…
- Some things seem SO American and Western, and yet others don’t. Elaborations to come later.
- I haven’t gone out yet, and am really curious to experience the night life.
- I haven’t decided if the young people here are sexually repressed or not. I’ve seen a lot of young couples here holding hands and seeming very touchy feely, but I have no idea what else that means as it’s still taboo to talk (much less ask) about sex out in the open.
- There is a very strange dichotomy between the good, studious, respectable young people and the ones who are less so and more progressive and/or rebellious in their social views.. I’m not sure that I understand it, and am curious to learn more.
- There are a lot more white people here than I thought there would be. A lot are here to teach and party. There are even TV shows (variety shows, reality shows, game shows and the like) with only foreigners as the contestants.
- Technology is so far ahead of the States and so ubiquitous, it’s kind of ridiculous.. For instance, my grandmother has a fairly old cell phone by Korean standards (about a year old), and yet, it has live TV on it and it’s totally free. Cell phones also have subway maps and dictionaries as free features. These are only a few of the many hi-tech aspects… (These are also, of course, the iphone-like cells.. Many many varieties that are touch-screen and I do not know or understand what features they have on them – no doubt everything imaginable and more.)
- The consumer culture here is also ridic. Materialism is abundant and almost openly encouraged.
- It hurts my head to try to talk in Korean so much already. I’m not very fond of speaking it as it feels rough and foreign to my tongue (mostly because I’m not at all good at it), and having to speak it nearly all the time is really painful. Hopefully, once the tutoring classes start, I won’t have to speak it as much, since I’ll be in class with students who are technically required to speak to me only in English (although the kids are pretty poorly behaved so this could easily backfire).
- People use the honorific here for even people who are only a year older than them. If you know French or Japanese, this might be familiar (for instance, in French, using the vous instead of the tu). I find this really bizarre. Even friends often use this kind of language. Kids start using the honorific with their peers of a grade or year older at around middle school (SO strange). It goes without saying that they use the honorific with almost all adults.
- I want to elaborate on how Koreans perceive America and its people in a later post.. It’ll also be interesting to contrast it to what people in SE Asia think about the States, too..
- This is my first day alone and I’ve spent most of it just prepping for class tomorrow. Hopefully, I’ll get to explore the city by myself or with other foreigners soon.
on the wrong foot..
missed my flight from SF to Seoul. now rerouted from SF to LAX to Seoul… this is going to be a long journey.
